1. Remove parts First remove your valve system, unscrew the power tube tip with a coin and take out all the parts from inside the power tube. Put them together with the bolt in a bag and save hem. If you ever have problems you can switch back. 2. Install backing washer Whi l er e f e r r i ngt ot heLVL10pa r t sdi a g r a m,f i r s tpl a c et heb a c ki ngwa s he r( 1)i n t ot hebo t t o mo ft hepo we rt ube .Ma kes ur ei t ’ ss i t t i ngf l a to nt hebo t t o m. Its made from delrin nd should go in a little tight and stay there. This washer prevents the new smaller o-ring from getting pushed into the air chamber. 3. O-ring inside carrier Pickup one of the brass o-ring carriers (4) and push a power tube o-ring (2) into the end that does not have a tapered hole. It should not go in one side and either slide in or press nto the correct side. There are 5 carriers supplied with your kit, each one is a little bigger than the next. They each have small grooves on the outside to help you tell them apart. The more grooves the larger the carrier. 4. Tune the carrier to the bolt and o-ring Each batch of o-rings is a little different than the last. In order to compensate for this we need to find the proper size carrier. The idea is to get a good seal with as little friction s possible. Take the carrier with the o-ring installed and push it o-ring first onto the pin sticking out the back of the bolt. If it pushes on too hard then go to a larger carrier, if it lides freely on the pin then go one smaller. The proper fit should be just snug. 5. Install the o-ring carrier Lightly lubricate the black o-ring (3) on the outside of the carrier. Push the carrier, o-ring first, into the power tube. Use the blunt end of a plastic pen to fully seat the carrier into he bottom of the power tube. When looking down into the power tube you should NOT see the white power tube o-ring (2). 6. Install the power tube tip Next install the new power tube tip (7) it should already have the power tube tip o-ring installed from the factory (6). These new tips have wrench flats to tighten the tips. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!! Notice that we did NOT put in the shims (5) at this time. 7. Test the o-ring carrier Now slide on your new Superbolt II with your original main spring (not one of the new ones) then reassemble the valve into the marker. Gas the marker up as see if it leaks. If it does leak use your finger or a squeegee to push the front face of the bolt around while i t sl e a k i ng .I ft hel e a kc h a ng e st o net he ni t ’ smo s tl i ke l yt hewr o ngo r i ngc a r r i e r( 4)a n d y o uha v et og ot ot hene x to net i g h t e r .I fi tdo e s n’ tl e a ky o uha v et her i g h tc a r r i e ra ndc a npr o c e e dt ot hene x ts t e p . 8. Shim adjustments Put a squeegee right in front of the bolt and pull the trigger. With very little clearance between the bolt and squeegee you will notice that the bolt comes forward and just stops on the squeegee. Then nothing else happens. Pulling the trigger does nothing to reset the bolt. In order to get the bolt to reset when it pinches a ball, we have to let the air out of he air chamber. The shims (5) control where in the forward stroke the air chamber starts venting. Its works a lot like the spacers in the original Mags. We left them out before o you could tell the difference between a carrier leak and a shim leak. Remove the power tube tip (7) and drop in two shims (5). Make SURE they are sitting flat in the bottom of the power tube before you screw the power tube tip on otherwise you will bend them up. Bent shims are useless and you will have to buy more. Reassemble the valve system as before using the original main spring and new Superbolt. Now when you air up the marker it should not leak but when you do the squeegee test you will notice that the air starts venting when the Superbolt moves forward. If you keep adding hims eventually the bolt will just leak all the time. For most people two shims work just fine. If you find that when you pinch a ball the marker locks up and does not reset then dd another shim. 9. Main spring tuning You are almost finished now. You have probably noticed that when you used the original main spring the bolt came forward with less force than usual but still had enough to hop a ball. The pin in the middle of the bolt is called the Power Pi s t o n, i ta c t sl i keac o r kt os e a lt hea i rc ha mbe r .J us tl i keac o r k, i t ’ sbe i ngpus he do utbyt hea i rpr e s s ur eb ut he sear holds it in. When you fire the marker, the bolt is getting pushed out by the air chamber pressure but the mainspring is pushing BACK against the bolt at the same time. Thel e v e l10mo di f i c a t i o nr e du c e st hes i z eo ft he“ c o r k”s ot hema i ns pr i ngh a sa ne a s i e rt i meho l d i ngi tb a c k.I fy o uputab i ge no ug hma i ns pr i ngo nt hebo l ta ndi twi l lno tf i r e t all!! The last thing to do is find the right main spring that pushes back hard enough on the bolt but not so hard that the marker does not fire. The right main spring will depend on many things such as what velocity you are shooting, what barrel you are using, the size of your paint etc. Start with the longest mainspring (9) from the LVL10 kit, assemble the v a l v ewi t hi ta n dg a st hema r ke rup .Tr yf i r i ng ,i fi tdo e s n’ tf i r e ,t ur nu pt hev e l o c i t yun t i li tdo e s .Tur ni ngupt hev e l o c i t yi sno r ma lf o rLe v e l10t un i ngi tdo e sno tme a n nything is wrong. If the marker starts venting out the back or the velocity is too high when it does start firing then the main spring is too long. Switch to the next shorter main spring. There are three mainsprings supplied in your kit. For the AO beta testers we have cut one coil off the longest main spring to make a mi ddl e ”s pr i ng .Thi ss pr i ngl o o ksf un nyo no nee n dl i kei t ’ smi s s i ngac o i l( be c a us ei ti s )p utt ha te n do nt hebo l tf i r s ts ot heg o o de n di ss t i c ki ngo u t .I no ure…
The first 1371 words, extracted from the PDF. Read the full manual above, or download it.